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Best ball to buy

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Wed, Sep 16 2015 5:00 AM (32 replies)
  • alanti
    10,564 Posts
    Mon, Sep 8 2014 1:23 PM

    MainzMan:

    JFidanza:

    Plus I consider a certain ball maybe for a certain course or CTTH, like Merion etc. Maybe a ball with more bite or spin may be good for certain courses.

    Personally I'd advise against using different balls for different courses.  Unless you are prepared to work out your clubs for each ball you use you're going to be playing guessing games to a certain extent.  My vote goes for finding a ball you like and using it every round you play.  That way you get to learn how it reacts in any situation.

    Damn, I made a golf ball sound like a pretty complicated piece of equipment there, I'm sure you know what I mean though.

    If you're OK with putting in the time to map your clubs with several balls then of course feel free to do so.  I'm just too lazy for that.

    L33 Cally for me.  Brilliant value ball that, I believe anyway, has the highest number of dots per $ in the pro shop.

    I agree with MM here - find a ball you like and stick with it. Then learn exactly what changing the spin can do and learn the holes by taking notes if required.

    In principal I understand getting a higher attribute spin ball may be an advantage, but unless you have charted that ball, it might stop well but could be 6 yards short!

    I used a bunch of single Nike and Cally balls up that were sitting in my bag - on a 100 yard shot I was getting up to 8 yards variance.

    As for Emmanuel - the cheaper WGT are fine - I used the Tour SD at Master level. At legend you will benefit from a better ball in terms of distance and spin - and as MM said, the level 33 is the best ball for your buck IMO.

    If money is no object, then the sky is the limit - and I am sure WGT will introduce a ball for you at 2000cr

  • JFidanza
    1,676 Posts
    Mon, Sep 8 2014 2:17 PM

    MainzMan:

     

    JFidanza:

    Plus I consider a certain ball maybe for a certain course or CTTH, like Merion etc. Maybe a ball with more bite or spin may be good for certain courses.

    Personally I'd advise against using different balls for different courses.  Unless you are prepared to work out your clubs for each ball you use you're going to be playing guessing games to a certain extent. 

     

    If you're OK with putting in the time to map your clubs with several balls then of course feel free to do so.  I'm just too lazy for that.

    L33 Cally for me.  Brilliant value ball that, I believe anyway, has the highest number of dots per $ in the pro shop.

    I understand that point and I generally concur.

    I'd 'advise against'...but still I'll tell how I switch, esp. due to game* and using 3 different iron sets, or a blitz set of 5 wedges (e.g. distance not a concern, plus that would cost more for distance which I don't need) 

    My observation mostly goes out to many of the people in the forum who are around tour pro and higher. 

    *Basic example, if I'm playing a  Par 3 course - as I suggested in the other post - using a ball w/the same spin and meter, then I wouldn't need to break out a more expensive ball of 5 distance or a Nike red. I could go with anything lower and cheaper. The Call. 33 is great and I love the Call yellow 37 for several reasons**.. But if it's a BO par 5 I surely will consider using a high distance rated ball of same spin & meter.

    I notice just extra distance off the driver. Approach shot distances per ball are not changing significantly to affect my game and mapping so a BO Par 3 game's ball will not require a high distance rating. IMHO

    I've been using 3 diff. irons and 4-5 diff, kinds of balls and getting the same basic scores . I have Cleves but I am surely thinking of getting the last 2 of the ATV then using them to match, most likely the 85's meter and the proper ball (2.5 meter ball or even 2 possible) But this is a just my luxury of experimentation and curiosity. Diversity and integration is another level of challenge that I've found in WGT. 

     When the pros and TL, etc. are hitting from far away, it looks like more than 7/10 are not going to stick w/ a 33 and more of them are using the high distance balls. Sure, we all might later change, (or have changed, as the situation/tier did)

    ..and beginners need not be so extravagant but I'm using free creds and I will mix and match for a while.

    ** A callie 37 yellow is 3.5 spin and 2.5 meter I believe, so I might use them w/ G25 59s or the N 85s, but not with the 97s. Those irons have a faster meter, not a big deal but when you find the right meter speed number total (iron + ball meter rating = total) I def advise against changing and adjusting in that manner.  

    So, the 97s may get Nike 61 balls, Red 42 or maybe the affordable Callie 34 (2.5s & 3.5m). The extra spin of the irons can handle the lower spin. The ball's 3.5 slows the 97s meter enough.

    But I wouldn't use the Callie 34's low 2.5 spin with the G25 3 spin.

          I wouldn't use the Callie 37's low 2.5 meter with the N97's 3 meter.

    When one gets to (or already is at) the parking lot tees you may be using the Nike 97 for distance plus long distance ball like 90 and 91 plus the extra 4.6+ etc spin rating so your 3 and 4 irons can have some control.

    Seems my answer is not so much a response to "What is the best ball for me to buy?" but rather,

    "WHY is it the best ball for me to buy?"

  • AndreasHelke
    675 Posts
    Fri, Sep 11 2015 3:24 AM

    The only really impressive Ball is the Nike black vapor with spin 4.6 and distance 5.5. I´d use it permanently if it was less expensive. But I quickly get fed up with paying for them especially if I shoot one into the water and the next out of bounds at a single hole.

    The most used by me are the GI2-D and GI2-S balls. With spin 4.5 clubs they work very well but not good enough to place in the top in a tournament. The GI2-S is labeled 2 dots of durabiliy. But you get 155 hits from it compared to the 120 hits of all 2.5 dot high end balls. Currently the GI2-S balls seems to be the most durable WGT offers. 

    Other good choices are the WGT Tour S, the Srixon balls and the Callaway slow meter ones with speed 3.5. Most of the Nike balls and the Callaway ones are a poor compromise between the Srixon and the top level Nike ones and only interesting if you don´t have the level yet to buy the Nike black vapor.

    The Max Meter balls are special because of the much slower meter but can´t really compete with the Nike Black Vapor balls.

    Many of the WGT brand balls are a poor choice compared to the Srixon balls because of their insufficient durability. 

  • 11BC2
    555 Posts
    Sun, Sep 13 2015 10:26 PM

    I'm in agreement with Jim in regards to putting more emphasis on good club mappings, especially ones in the 5Y - 100Y range.  Beyond that, unless you have money to waste (as others have said) buying an expensive ball won't get you the results you're looking for.

    Imo, if you're hovering in the 63-68 range a $7.00 sleeve of balls won't gain you a huge advantage over a $2.50 sleeve of balls.  And I also vote for sticking to one ball.  Which ball depends on your skill level, expectations, and bank roll.

    I for one absolute HATE the Nike Blacks, Reds, etc.  Why?  They have way too much spin.  Sounds weird I'm sure but for me its true.  You need to find a good ball/Club combo with your particular style.  I use full B/S on 99% of my PW - 3i shots and I use Nike 100s rated at 4.5 spin.

    Get to know your equipment because it makes a huge difference.  My old RSI's were also rated at 4.5 spin however, using my current MaxMeterPro ball I was unable to stop or hold neutral greens (no elevation) with 5i's with tail wind (moderate too, 6-8).   With my same 4.5 spin rating Nike 100s I'm able to not only hold but stop and b/s 5i's and above with tail wind.

    Anyways, unless your shooting in the low 60's I don't see anything wrong with using Srixons, Callaways, or the lower level Volviks.  Those would be my suggestions.

  • AndreasHelke
    675 Posts
    Tue, Sep 15 2015 1:13 PM

    Dialing in extra spin with a high spin club high spin ball combination only makes sense with the iron 3 and iron 4 and maybe iron 5. All shorter clubs have just the right spin with the spin adjustment at neutral. If you insist on always using spin you of course need a different ball. But with a properly used high spin ball you have the option to stop long irons on flat or descending greens more quickly.

  • hpurey
    11,505 Posts
    Tue, Sep 15 2015 1:24 PM

    this thread was started over 2 years ago.  Perhaps it would be best to start a fresh one with current ball selection?

     

     

  • 11BC2
    555 Posts
    Tue, Sep 15 2015 2:08 PM

    AndreasHelke:
    Dialing in extra spin with a high spin club high spin ball combination only makes sense with the iron 3 and iron 4 and maybe iron 5. All shorter clubs have just the right spin with the spin adjustment at neutral. If you insist on always using spin you of course need a different ball. But with a properly used high spin ball you have the option to stop long irons on flat or descending greens more quickly.

    Unfortunately this isn't true and it has nothing to do with insisting, but rather,  with results ;).   Using full b/s does several things but I'll focus on 2 main aspects;  wind and ball control.  Now, both these are already somewhat linked to one another anyways but................

    If I were to use a 6i as an example (same holds true for all the clubs) w/out using any b/s at all (neutral spin) your final shot distance has quite a bit more Deviation than if you were to use full b/s.   I.e.  zero spin deviation for my 6i would result in shots ranging from 174y - 184y.  On the flip side, when I use full b/s on the same club shot deviation ranges from 171-174y almost like clockwork.

    Even with my PW w/out using full b/s the ball distance varies from 117-123y which is quite the spread imo.  With full b/s that same club always gives me 113-115y.  So you actually gain more control and precion, at a cost.

    The more spin you use the more wind affects your shot and not only that, the more total spin used also makes miss ding shots more pronounced too.  This means you need to be a Ding/near Ding player to maximize this technique.  Obviously a high spin ball would cause a greater increase to wind adjustments and cause even more grief to the player when missing or near Dings.

    I took a quick peak at your stats and noticed you're in the 75 average range.  I find that spending a little time to perfect your club mappings, especially on wedges (from 4y - 100y) would probably shave off 5-10 strokes a round for you.  I'd suggest staying away from expensive balls because they won't give you much benefit at this point.  Personally, I used a .43 cent 2.0 spin, everything else zero WGT ball all the way up to Legend (then I started using better balls).

    Hope this helps!?

    Cheers!  Sean.

  • twinponds169
    3,019 Posts
    Tue, Sep 15 2015 3:28 PM

    Sean,

    Your meteoric rise just amazes me. Please do not think I am at all questioning your talent or ability, you obviously have spent a great deal of well used time learning this game. Getting to legend so fast is a great achievement, what boggles my mind is, how on earth did you get to level 100 so fast? I only see like 250 ranked rounds, and it seems like you would need a thousand plus 18 hole games just to get the XP's from 90 to 100. The only thing I can think of is you used RG funds to buy XP Boost, which at 60 bucks for 2 weeks, would be quite expensive cash wise. Just curious sir, how did you amass these Xp's so quickly? Also, congrats, you are just inches from the front page leader board and joining the likes of FMags and Sebicu. And thank you for your service to our country.

  • 1enigma1
    486 Posts
    Tue, Sep 15 2015 6:19 PM

    Yeah enquiring minds would like to know, please do tell Sean   :)   ..                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         

  • AndreasHelke
    675 Posts
    Wed, Sep 16 2015 1:06 AM

    11BC2:

    AndreasHelke:
    Dialing in extra spin with a high spin club high spin ball combination only makes sense with the iron 3 and iron 4 and maybe iron 5. All shorter clubs have just the right spin with the spin adjustment at neutral. If you insist on always using spin you of course need a different ball. But with a properly used high spin ball you have the option to stop long irons on flat or descending greens more quickly.

    Unfortunately this isn't true and it has nothing to do with insisting, but rather,  with results ;).   Using full b/s does several things but I'll focus on 2 main aspects;  wind and ball control.  Now, both these are already somewhat linked to one another anyways but................

    If I were to use a 6i as an example (same holds true for all the clubs) w/out using any b/s at all (neutral spin) your final shot distance has quite a bit more Deviation than if you were to use full b/s.   I.e.  zero spin deviation for my 6i would result in shots ranging from 174y - 184y.  On the flip side, when I use full b/s on the same club shot deviation ranges from 171-174y almost like clockwork.

    Even with my PW w/out using full b/s the ball distance varies from 117-123y which is quite the spread imo.  With full b/s that same club always gives me 113-115y.  So you actually gain more control and precion, at a cost.

    The more spin you use the more wind affects your shot and not only that, the more total spin used also makes miss ding shots more pronounced too.  This means you need to be a Ding/near Ding player to maximize this technique.  Obviously a high spin ball would cause a greater increase to wind adjustments and cause even more grief to the player when missing or near Dings.

    I took a quick peak at your stats and noticed you're in the 75 average range.  I find that spending a little time to perfect your club mappings, especially on wedges (from 4y - 100y) would probably shave off 5-10 strokes a round for you.  I'd suggest staying away from expensive balls because they won't give you much benefit at this point.  Personally, I used a .43 cent 2.0 spin, everything else zero WGT ball all the way up to Legend (then I started using better balls).

    Hope this helps!?

    Cheers!  Sean.

    Thanks. Yes this indeed helps or at least gives me directions for further research.

    I have been using the starter balls until I reached the master tier. Since then I mostly used the GI2 balls. But I checked out almost all available balls and occasionally play with a good one for a while. 

    After a few days with the Nike Black Vapour I am now back to the GI2-S Tour-SD and Srixon balls mostly.

    My main reason for loosing strokes is poor put reading on uneven greens. Or missing the correct timing when executing those puts. There getting closer to the pin would help a lot.

    And playing with cheap balls while not really fit enough to get close to the ping. This is good for a 20 above par for me when playing Chambers bay or Pinehurst with heavy wind.

    Andreas

     

     

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