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I made master and I stink!!!!!!!!!!!

• 464 Posts

  Wed, Apr 14 2010 5:19 PM

  SystemCrash:

  I do this from time to time in a practice round in pro tier:

  • Set tees to HARD
  • Set the greens to VERY FAST
  • Set the wind to "HURRICANE!"

  This way we will all be ready when we change to MASTER!!

  Rob

   

   

   

  I've been doing that lately too. Chance favors the prepared mind. =)

• micklen 221 Posts

  Thu, Apr 15 2010 3:57 AM

  SystemCrash:

  I do this from time to time in a practice round in pro tier:

  • Set tees to HARD
  • Set the greens to VERY FAST
  • Set the wind to "HURRICANE!"

  This way we will all be ready when we change to MASTER!!

  SNAP!!!   Just what I used to do.  As to the putting problem I would have to say get the Daytona.  Really makes a difference.  Doesn't make it easy, but it does make it easier

  Mick

• NikolajK 36 Posts

  Wed, May 5 2010 11:26 AM

  I'll join in here - Master putting on very fast greens is extremely difficult. I wonder if anyone actually mapped the Redwood putter......?

  I have tried, but it doesn't seem to be consistent - I have simply lost my putting skills...

• YankeeJim 25,827 Posts

  Wed, May 5 2010 11:46 AM

  NikolajK:

  I'll join in here - Master putting on very fast greens is extremely difficult. I wonder if anyone actually mapped the Redwood putter......?

  Most definitely, Nikolaj.  The numbers I use on Very Fast greens are 8 8 12 16 20 35. Those numbers will make sense if you use the avatar move method of putting as laid out by WGTNiv in the Putting Tips. Slow greens are 25% less across the board  (6  6  9  12  15  27). 

• NikolajK 36 Posts

  Wed, May 5 2010 12:10 PM

  Yes, but this is where things go wrong for me. As a Pro I did like this:

  Slow greens: Never met them

  Fast greens 6 - 6 - 9 - 12 - 16 - 20

  So I would have expected:

  Very fast greens: 8 - 8 - 12 - 16 - 20 - 35, and I did some mapping on BPB 10th and 11th hole. It seemed to be OK.

  However it doesn't make any sense, when You look at the gauge/meter or whatever You call it ;-) Take the 15 for instance. First avatar move is 8 then and the second is 16, but there's still some way (½ move) up to 15. Same with the others. With 45 - 4 moves are 48, but that is only 75% of the way up to 45?

  I guess that is what confuses me :-)

  This is my conclusion:

  1. Never mind Slow greens. I'll figure it out, when I see them.

  2. On Fast greens use 6 - 6 - 9 - 12 - 15 - 27. That is also correct according to the meter/gauge.

  3. On Very fast greens use 8 - 8 - 12 - 16 - 20 - 35. That doesn't correspond with the meter/gauge, but never mind. Stick with those numbers.

  Is that it? :-) 

  P.S. Just added that I was actually playing, whne I wrote this. Had a 10 ft. put downhill 1. That is 9 ft. I used the 15 gauge and a little bit more than the first move. That should be 9 right. I hit the mark and came up 2.1 ft. short. I don't get it ;-)

• YankeeJim 25,827 Posts

  Wed, May 5 2010 1:14 PM

  NikolajK:

  2. On Fast greens use 6 - 6 - 9 - 12 - 15 - 27. That is also correct according to the meter/gauge.

  3. On Very fast greens use 8 - 8 - 12 - 16 - 20 - 35. That doesn't correspond with the meter/gauge, but never mind. Stick with those numbers.

  Is that it? :-) 

  I can see what is confusing you. Maybe if I said it different it might make more sense. The green speed when I first got the Redwood was slow. Everything was slow so I was able to come up with the lower set of numbers. WGTNiv actually helped refine those way back then. 

  Then fast greens showed up. During the mapping process I discovered that the base difference between the speeds was a 33% increase. A move that was 6 ft turned into 8 ft. It was pretty consistent across the board so I applied it that way, not by actually proving it. The proof came on the greens and these numbers acted accordingly. I use them to this day. Look at your example and turn your 15 ft scale into a 20 ft scale(add 33%)-the # of moves works. 2 1/2 moves into 20 =8 8 4

  Where my 15 and 30 scales say 8 ft I treat them as a weak 8 for the 15 and a strong 8 for the 30. Anything over 8 feet I use the 45 scale anyway. It's a 12 ft putt on one move but 10-11 just before. A 9 ft putt gets hit at 11 ft strength.  By your example I would have used the 45 scale, 1 move. It's harder to gauge how much "more" you need to hit a putt than it is to gauge how hard not to hit it. This is just what works for me. Hope it helps and I'd be happy to shoot a round with you to get this right. Let me know. GL

• NikolajK 36 Posts

  Wed, May 5 2010 1:35 PM

  Thank You - I'll practice a bit :-) (again)

  So now Very Fast greens make sense to me.

  Now just one question left: Which set of number do You use for Fast Greens?

  Hopefully the lower set of numbers, because they certainly worked for me on Fast Greens, when I was Pro (that was yesterday) LOL

  I think maybe Slow turned into fast and Fast turned into Very fast. That would explain everything. Are there at all slow greens excpet for practice rounds?

• iwb1 110 Posts

  Wed, May 5 2010 1:42 PM

  NikolajK:

  P.S. Just added that I was actually playing, whne I wrote this. Had a 10 ft. put downhill 1. That is 9 ft. I used the 15 gauge and a little bit more than the first move. That should be 9 right. I hit the mark and came up 2.1 ft. short. I don't get it ;-)

  I always found the 30' scale plays a lot more consistent on distance and only use the 15 for 0-4' putts. The putt you describe above I would of played with the 45 scale, advance to the movement then back off to cancel out the movement. The way I read the scale tends to give me 2' of difference between the movement advancing and closing.  

  Hope you find this useful.

   

• NikolajK 36 Posts

  Wed, May 5 2010 1:50 PM

  Thank You - I certainly do.

• YankeeJim 25,827 Posts

  Wed, May 5 2010 1:54 PM

  iwb1:

  I always found the 30' scale plays a lot more consistent on distance and only use the 15 for 0-4' putts. The putt you describe above I would of played with the 45 scale, advance to the movement then back off to cancel out the movement. The way I read the scale tends to give me 2' of difference between the movement advancing and closing.  

  Hope you find this useful.

   

  Extremely useful, iwb! Thank you for saying it that way. It made instant sense to something I've been trying to figure out how to explain. Taking it one step further, do no trust the first move to be right on. Advance to it, cancel it and then creep up on it to get the exact move. Just advancing without cancelling leads to longer putts than you expect.

  @Nik-Sometimes they show up in RGs and an occasional tournament.