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Re: I need a FoolProof technique against cross winds

Mon, Jul 28 2014 9:42 AM (85 replies)
  • PaulTon
    10,731 Posts
    Sat, May 24 2014 1:25 AM

    alexk345:
    I can probably create my own chart

    WOW!!!   Just... wow! This day will be noted in WGT's history.

  • fatdan
    3,379 Posts
    Sat, May 24 2014 2:26 AM

    JFidanza:

    This is very interesting, and do you know where it is stated about:

     

    Sure, one of many WGT staff posts on it...although some say otherwise..

    WGTalex:

    Hi Boffman, it was a mirage... it's a feature we are working on but it is not yet ready for release.

     

  • JFidanza
    1,676 Posts
    Sat, May 24 2014 10:32 AM

    So then, from what you said :

    fatdan: "there is no fade or draw programmed into the game on approach shots,

    I might postulate yet not conclude that  :

    There are 1) draws and fades when using a driver off the tee (edit -YES)

    OR

    2) draws and fades on the first shot off the tee using any club. (edit-  NO, JUST DRIVERS)

    OR

    3) There are draws and fades when using a driver BUT NOT the other clubs off the tee. (edit- YES)

     

    [I'm asking because the 1st drive to a par 3 green (or any 1st drive that will reach the green)  is a kind of approach shot in the context of the recent subject]

    ---

    Presuming 1) is the case, then you could wonder: "Does the drive from a driver (off the tee) to a par 3 green have draws and fades??" (EDIT- YES)

    If 2) is the case, then, for example, "My 1st hit to a par 3 green (or any green within reach of my club) w/ my 3W (or any other non-driver club) will have draws and fades." (NO, DRIVERS ONLY)

    Yet if 3) is the case, then ""My 1st hit to a par 3 green w/ my 3W (or any other non-driver club) will not  have draws and fades."" (YES; IT WILL LACK THE ABILITY TO DRAW/FADE)

    ---

     Since I've played the Best of Par 3 often for quicker XP points I would like to know that if #3 is the case, then sometimes I may not use my non-drivers off the tee and I may possibly buy a driver that has lower yardage...

    because possibly (3) There are draws and fades when using a driver BUT NOT the other clubs off the tee.

    Thanks in advance to anyone who may have input.

    ---

    EDIT Not to mention the issue would be paramount in Blitz and CTTH 

    (see my subsequent post with the diagram for more on this)

  • MBaggese
    15,367 Posts
    Sat, May 24 2014 12:40 PM

    JFidanza:
    Thanks in advance to anyone who may have input.

     

    I've never teed off with a 3 wood or Iron and tried to "work the ball"...but driver does nicely off the tee.

     

    That said, I've "worked" the 3 wood many time on BBP#7 (think 7...loooong par 4) when behind the trees on the fairway, seems to work well.

     

    When Oly came out, tried some Iron draws and fades with my R11's to get around trees on the fairway...epic fail.

  • fatdan
    3,379 Posts
    Sat, May 24 2014 1:56 PM

    My input is why play par 3s...your already lvl 98 in 6 months and can buy any club or ball except the Nike lvl 100 driver and you can't get the true approach yardage from your irons off of a tee shot...

    Another thought is your making this harder than it really is and that's why your still a Tour pro(not bashing you), there are hundreds of threads on how to play by the best here and you seldom see any mention of fades or draws....

     

  • Jimbog1964
    8,378 Posts
    Sat, May 24 2014 2:25 PM

    fatdan:
    Another thought is your making this harder than it really

    fatdan:
    best here and you seldom see any mention of fades or draws....

     

    Also not trying to be anything other than constructive.  FWIW I simply fully agree here.  You have plenty of club, and don't need to change anything that way.  

    Personally (credits permitting) I would try to use a better ball the starter (as I said in another thread I think), and yo don't need to go mad on price to get significantly better.

    IMO though just keeping it simple is the way to generally go here.  OK get settled in to Legend and a very few holes a bit of shaping is nice off the tee, but that's it. 

    Cheers

  • alexk345
    1,148 Posts
    Sat, May 24 2014 2:46 PM

    Slow meter makes it everything easy. Less cushion you need as you can ding 75% of time.

  • JFidanza
    1,676 Posts
    Sat, May 24 2014 3:13 PM

    My previous post may have seemed wordy but the questions are basic.

    --

    ** My response as to why not play 'a normal shot' , or why & how to hit a shot with cross wind, etc. is described below.

    [ADDENDUM: ONLY APPLICABLE WITH THE USE OF DRIVERS]

    I see a big difference in what I'm suggesting. My slice against the wind 'K' has a flight path and landing onto the green shaped as shown in A2. (this shot and landing looks like the one shown by Scott in the WGT replay, and you can see the flight curve and the ball rolling to the right against the wind)  

    If I were to, as suggested,  just aim right (for the crosswind) and DING 'normally' (P) as shown in figure D2, I'm suspecting the ball landing is likely to be shown (edit: as demonstrated HERE ) by the Yellow arrows. (this is risking a bunker landing, and there is less fairway/green to work with than A2)

    There is an obvious advantage to changing methods if I am accurate in my presumption. The term 'margin of error' comes to mind. Again, I don't concur that this technique or suggestion/question is 'complicated.'

    THANKS !

    ps  the presumption would be paramount in Blitz and CTTH 

  • fatdan
    3,379 Posts
    Sat, May 24 2014 5:23 PM

    Honestly, your question has left me speechless, you have obviously determined that you can fade and draw a iron approach shot so lets just say one is the right shot, and the other will most likely end up in those trees on the far left of the diagram and let you figure  out which is which....

  • JFidanza
    1,676 Posts
    Sat, May 24 2014 5:33 PM

    Seeing is believing ***

    Well, maybe we're getting lost in the terms...and the questions I asked are still unanswered about driver and irons off the tee, etc. That's why I asked them.

    [EDIT:TO BE CLEAR,  DRAWS & FADES ARE APPLICABLE TO DRIVERS ONLY]

    Cutting to the chase, let's just say what I may be saying is I think a drive to a green would be better as clearly shown in the replay.  ***

    The ball has been hit past ding and against the wind, the ball is curving in the air and rolling from left to right. 

    I don't know what you call it but if I'm on a par 3 or any other reachable green off the tee I would use the method shown below. [with a driver only]

     

    ScottHope posted
    ***

    A shot against the wind, camera 1 for the best replay view.''

    replays at the thread:

    http://www.origin-www.wgt.com/forums/t/197600.aspx?pageindex=2

    And for further observation:

    ScottHope posted

    An opposite shot into a crosswind again, camera 1 for best view.'

    ---

    Note : how the  shot against the wind,  didn't end up 'left in the trees' or anywhere left for that matter. For best results, play the replay.

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