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G0LD's putting formula UPDATED.

• WeidaDeNei 298 Posts

  Tue, Jul 2 2013 8:10 AM

  Yes it does becase you have to come up with your own conversion for what a FAST and SLOW grid line are. In the long run gold only created the idea of how to read a break. It still relies on trial and error from the user to tweak the numbers until putts start to fall. He provided the baseline for everyone to use. From there if you use it and putts seem to be burning the high edge then make an adjustment to the numbers until they start dropping. To each there own. Soo... screen resolution... monitor size... should not be a factor in the overall success of this putting system.

• 8802 4,129 Posts

  Wed, Jul 3 2013 3:13 PM

  WeidaDeNei:

  The reason you add for a downhill slope is due to the fact that downhill putts break more because you are putting them at a slower pace. The same goes for uphill. You subtract from uphill because you are putting it harder... which means less break.

  Thank you for the info - makes perfect sense now.

• row2seat2 1,441 Posts

  Wed, Jul 3 2013 4:30 PM

  While were young!

• Coryjrichter 5 Posts

  Wed, Oct 9 2013 9:38 PM

  That is the longest thread to read through and still be unsure at the end!! LOL

• Hogwired 82 Posts

  Wed, Oct 30 2013 5:36 PM

  Tuzik:

  Here is simple Exel 4 this formula http://filesave.me/file/20883/EXEL4Gold-xls.html

   

   

  ... says file not available... anyone have this excel file please?

   

  thx

• SplashLewis 358 Posts

  Thu, Oct 31 2013 10:45 AM

  The following works perfectly if you are using the standard distance formula, are a "dead ball" putter and use the ding approach.  It will get you very close.  It is a good STARTING point as you have to adjust slighty to wind, varying slopes as ball travels, effects of break at end of putt versus beginning of putt, etc.  I use reverse view to gauge breaks.

  The break is 1 square per 10feet from hole(straightline distance, not adjusted distance) for very fast beads.

  Of course you have to recognize what very fast beads are.  Anyway, adjust from there, i.e. medium moving beads break is 1 square per 20 feet.

  My personal problem is that i dont/cant ding as much as i should, so i have a lot of 8inch putts, but I am ALWAYS close regardless of distance from hole.

  So as an example on a 30 foot putt. Slow beads for the first 10 feet, very fast in the last 20 feet.  Break would be 2.25 squares.

   

• alrassan 41 Posts

  Sat, Nov 9 2013 2:47 PM

  Lol. Sigh.

• mantis0014 8,946 Posts

  Sat, Nov 9 2013 4:00 PM

  SplashLewis:

  The following works perfectly if you are using the standard distance formula, are a "dead ball" putter and use the ding approach.  It will get you very close.  It is a good STARTING point as you have to adjust slighty to wind, varying slopes as ball travels, effects of break at end of putt versus beginning of putt, etc.  I use reverse view to gauge breaks.

  The break is 1 square per 10feet from hole(straightline distance, not adjusted distance) for very fast beads.

  Of course you have to recognize what very fast beads are.  Anyway, adjust from there, i.e. medium moving beads break is 1 square per 20 feet.

  My personal problem is that i dont/cant ding as much as i should, so i have a lot of 8inch putts, but I am ALWAYS close regardless of distance from hole.

  So as an example on a 30 foot putt. Slow beads for the first 10 feet, very fast in the last 20 feet.  Break would be 2.25 squares.

   

  You might be over thinking everything.

  I'm a miss the ding putter....   the only time I would move the aim is if there is a fast break on long putts.

  Don't worry about the wind.....  keep things simple,  just distance and roll on greens and hit just slightly longer than you think....   the old saying 'not up not in'  1ft past the hole is good... careful with big downhill putts though.

  -Roger

• GirnBlanston 648 Posts

  Fri, Feb 28 2014 10:09 AM

  Really, are you kidding me?  I think i'll stick to my way of hit and pray.  I can't even begin to wrap my brain around this.