Greetings people trying to get better at putting. In another thread, Naturali was kind enough to share his putting break formula. I PM'd him and asked for a few clarifications, and he thought perhaps it should be out there in the forum so more can try it / benefit. So...here is the formula and the conversation:
((green speed / dot speed in seconds) * (distance in feet - elevation in inches))/1.25
Was wondering if you'd mind sharing a little bit more information about your break formula? I play the exact same way as you -- i.e. calculate everything and then make small adjustments based on experience. Anyway... given this:
<formula was here>
Say the result is 21 from the formula. How do you aim 21? Is it based on JC Sneed i.e. where 1st grid is 15, and every other after that is 10?
Great rounds in the VT BTW very nice. My putter failed me for round 2 -- hence the question! :)
Much thanks for any help/tips.
The 21 would be inches. None of that JC Snead half grid = 10 or 15 or whatever. That is nonsense.
Don't get me wrong, it's the right idea. And I appreciate the starting point of sending me down that path of calculating. But why have such a convoluted measurement for grids when we already know that the grid is exactly 24" wide. The hole is about 4" wide. We can derive every single inch of the grid from that info alone.
Keep in mind that the formula is based on a pretty much drop dead putt speed. So if you hit it firmer, you'd adjust accordingly.
Also, most putts do not have a "uniform" speed for all the dots. So some mental adjustments will have to be made. Like if the first half has 6 second dots and the last half has 8 second dots. You might input 7. Then line up the putt and see how it looks. You'll start to notice some recurring number patterns and consistent aimpoints emerge.
I've shown this to my country club, but most of them don't have the patience to deal with math or Excel. The few that do use it got really confused at first by the part of the equation "- elevation in inches". Just remember that you're calculating the break, not the power to strike the putt. So, you are subtracting the elevation. If it is downhill 2". The you would be subtracting -2 in that part of the equation.
This won't drop every putt. But it will get you looking at the correct area to aim, without a doubt. And it's easier to calculate than JC Snead method. There are a couple of other calculations if you get into extreme downhill situations. But 90% of the time, this formula will be sufficient.
Feel free to post this question and my answer in the forums if you want. It might help some of the others and keep me from having to re-type it over and over... LOL
One other question I just thought of was the timing of the dots. Do you time half a grid double it and input that into the formula, or is the time actually the time of the dots moving just half a grid?
The reason I ask is 11BC2 posted a video about his version of JC Sneed, and his timing method was to time half a grid.
Just wondering what time your formula is looking for?
The formula input is for the dot speed across a full grid.
However, since the dots begin their movement from the center of the grid, I often count it from half a grid and just double it to save time. Usually on really slow dots for long putts.
You might check some of my streams on YouTube to see me switching views back and forth to count the dots.
Like everything to do with putting, it's speed dependent. (It's also sort of camera angle dependent too, if I'm being accurate.) But if you're starting from a concrete calculation, the adjustments become routine. Starting from a "pretty good guess" leaves much more room for error., and you'll never really know how to account for the misses.
I have yet to try this out; but surely will. Big thanks to Naturali for sharing.