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Green elevation?

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Fri, Oct 19 2018 8:30 AM (9 replies)
  • SlickHunter
    1,034 Posts
    Tue, May 16 2017 2:18 PM

    Hi guys, I've taken the advice on how to calculate the green elevation. Every 3ft. of elevation, I add one yard, seems to work just fine. How about when its downgrade, how is the calculation if there's any? One particular hole I'm having problem with, has a downgrade of 80ft. What is the calculation on this one? thanks

     

  • ApexPC
    3,164 Posts
    Wed, May 17 2017 11:32 AM

    Subtract 80 / 3 or 26.6 yards.

  • SlickHunter
    1,034 Posts
    Wed, May 17 2017 11:39 AM

    ApexPC:

    Subtract 80 / 3 or 26.6 yards.

    Ok, so it's the same conversion, 3ft/yard, up or down..thanks

     

  • phred952
    2,714 Posts
    Wed, May 17 2017 11:44 AM

    SlickHunter:

    Hi guys, I've taken the advice on how to calculate the green elevation. Every 3ft. of elevation, I add one yard, seems to work just fine. How about when its downgrade, how is the calculation if there's any? One particular hole I'm having problem with, has a downgrade of 80ft. What is the calculation on this one? thanks

     

    There are 2 schools of thought on minus elevation.  1.  Subtract 1 yard for every 3 feet of drop.  2.  Subtract 1 yard for every 4 feet of drop. 

    This hole sounds like the Chambers Bay Par 3 (#9).  However on that particular hole it doesn't work out quite right as far as I have found.  My best efforts were to reduce power by about 5 to 10% more.  Best thing is to find it and play some practice holes.

    You can go to WGT Community and click "Golf Courses".  Then click on Chambers Bay.  It will open where you can choose any of the 18 holes for practice,  However, here is a link to that hole from the red tees, with low wind and standard greens (the default conditions):

    http://www.wgt.com/courses/ChambersBay/hole9.aspx

    Once you open it, click on the "Play Now" button.

    I hope this helps.  Good Luck.

    phred952

  • YankeeJim
    25,827 Posts
    Wed, May 17 2017 12:32 PM

    I trust the 3 ft= 1 yard for both up and down. What you have to understand, though, is what that elevation does to the shot arc. The higher elevation interrupts it before it gets to its full travel and it comes up short whereas with the downhill shot, that arc is extended and the length of the shot increases until it lands.

    You also have to pay attention to what the elevation is where the shot will land. CCC #4 is a good example. The elevation change isn't gradual, it all happens at the end, right where the shot would normally land and that happens to be that trap in front of the green. It's like the ground comes up to meet the ball so the simple math there will get you in trouble.

  • SlickHunter
    1,034 Posts
    Wed, May 17 2017 4:57 PM

    Thanks guys for all the advice. I will take this to my practice round.

  • Cortracy
    54 Posts
    Wed, Oct 17 2018 6:08 PM

    I've been playing since 2011 .. and found and through advice throu the yrs nothing's accurate... I've learnt...half all up n downs and  hit 3/4  all wind with your aown instinct also as its  just a marker and its how you feel pre shot ... upto you 

  • Yiannis1970
    3,269 Posts
    Thu, Oct 18 2018 10:30 PM

    Every course plays differently. Although 3ft=1 yd is a good start, it's not safe on lots of occasions. Even the winds affect courses differently. Try to adjust your game having in mind the course's parameters and peculiarities.

  • WWilliams46
    91 Posts
    Fri, Oct 19 2018 7:00 AM

    Yiannis1970:

    Every course plays differently. Although 3ft=1 yd is a good start, it's not safe on lots of occasions. Even the winds affect courses differently. Try to adjust your game having in mind the course's parameters and peculiarities.

    As mentioned in the quote I have found you have to be careful with winds, for example if there is a large drop then the ball will be in the air longer and this allows more time for the wind to effect the ball as in the Chambers example previously stated as well.  Just my 2 cents.

  • Yiannis1970
    3,269 Posts
    Fri, Oct 19 2018 8:30 AM

    When it comes to winds, you have to consider several things. Let's make an example by taking 2 opposite wind scenarios. 14 wind at 6 o' clock and 14 at 12 o' clock.

    Fact number 1:

    When you have a heavy facewind the ball gets a higher trajectory meanwhile on a tailwind gets a lower trajectory.*

    That means for sure that wind affects the ball in the first case but also means that your ball stays in the air longer. So...when you have a heavy facewind, all you have to do is to try a dart shot. Practicing will give you the necessary distance and club's choice on your strokes.

    Tailwinds are definitely harder to play because you have to consider not the flag point but the first bounce of the ball. Then you have to calculate how many yards will roll by applying a certain percentage of back spin on your ball.

    * To make this point clearer, try to drive on the 10th hole at Olympic using these two scenarios. You will find out that meanwhile with heavy facewind and full back spin on your ball you can clear easily the trees before you using your driver, on a tailwind you will hit them every time (sometime will pass if you are really lucky). So...in order to drive there with heavy tail, use your 3wd full back spin of course.

    High trajectory makes all the difference in approach shots, that's why tailwinds are tougher to handle. A high spin ball will compensate things but will not eliminate entirely the problem.

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