Having never utilized the forums for advice until a few weeks ago, I'm "late to the party". I did read the first 7 pages tho...I know, big deal, you don't know what has been said or posted in the interim, and you're right, I don't. But I'd like to offer some personal tips that may or may not have been previously given. I wish I knew how to post pictures but haven't that skill...yet.
After deciding I needed a new putter, I immediately chose the Method because it offered increments in the 10ths . Then I did as codmot did in his post years ago...added a strip of paper below the power meter. I sectioned the length in increments of ten from right to left and marks for half foots also. When I use the 10' meter, I know that putting 5 1/2' from my paper will result in a 5 1/2' distance on a flat no break green. This also applies to a 20', a 50', a 100' or a 150' meter as each is divisible by 10. So a 62' putt is between the 6th and 6 1/2' mark using the 100' meter.
And now we have stimp greens for TM's, L's and TL's. 11's, 12's and 13's. I have a fairly simple but mostly effective way of quickly calculating how much meter strength to use for each speed. Please take note that the given info pertains to distance only on straight uphill or downhill putts only! Obviously, breaking downhill or breaking uphill putts takes a little more calculating!
11's...Remember "6". If you've a putt of 15' that's 3" uphill, add the inches as if they were feet to the 15. So now it's 18'. Divide by 6. That's 3 so subtract 3 from 17 for a 14' distance. So I'd put my power mark on the mark just shy of the 15' mark and dead ding it. You may wish to add 1/2'-1' of power for every 10' of distance uphill. Better long then short, as we all know "never up, never in". A downhiller works the same way. Subtract the inches drop from the foot distance, divide by 6 and maybe take 1/2'-1' off for downhill. Adding or subtracting the 1/2-1' per 10' is more important the longer the putt. With a little practice, you can work out your own add/subtract feet to suit. All putters are different in how they work.
12's...Remember "5". Same principle as above.
13's...Remember "4". Again, same principle.
It goes without saying that most (if not all) semi-experienced to very experienced players rarely move the aim line...just ding left to offset a breaking right and visa versa. A total waste of time unless your putt is very curly! And, most know that the further away from a dead ding, the less distance your going to go so one must adjust for that.
None of this that works for me, may work for you. It is only how I do it. I think the key though, is to have that paper scale. Without it, I'd have no clue as to the distance I want. If you can make one for your putter, it will immediately enhance your ability to judge the strength of your putts. I've since installed a similar piece under the release area graduating out from the center from 0 to 20 per side. Also a aid for a release point.
The only other thing I suggest is take this to the practice mode and try it. The 1st and 9th greens on St.A are pretty level. Practice, practice, practice! It won't make perfect but perfection isn't the goal. A workable and quick way to establish how much power to use and when/where to release it is.
Taking this a step further, I've also practiced all the power marks for my 2 thru 64* irons as well so I know what a 7 1/2 mark using a 6 iron will travel. Also did this with full bs, no s and full ts to include the distance it lands and rolls, stops or backs up. And for a punch, pitch, chip or flop, but only on my PW/56/60/64 wedges. I think I got carried away doing my driver tho. I know how far each mark will drive the ball but also punch it as well, with the 3 spin options also.
Ok...I admit it. I also can and do use the paper meter for 60/64 wedge shots on a flat 12 stimp green...from 10' to 104'...sometimes better then a putt depending on break and hump. ;)
If any of this helps just 1 player, I'll have considered it worth posting.